The View from the South Rim: Highlights from Our Day at the Grand Canyon

Saturday September 26

David Brown observed, “Standing at the edge of the Grand Canyon is like standing at the edge of time, where nature’s artistry tells stories of eternity.” 

The Grand Canyon is one of those places where photographs, words, and memories seem inadequate to describe the experience of gazing across the gorge, admiring the colors, listening to the whistling wind, and inhaling the moment.

I have been to the Grand Canyon multiple times over the years, and one thing that continues to amaze me is that the view never gets old.

No matter how many times I stand at the rim, there is something about looking into that immense canyon that makes me pause, reflect, and simply take it in.

Our most recent visit was 25 years ago, when we visited the North Rim. It has been over 30 years since we visited the South Rim.. So today’s return to the Grand Canyon was not a new experience but it was a new adventure.

A Scenic Prelude to the Canyon

This morning we left Page, Arizona, and headed toward the Grand Canyon, entering the park through the East Entrance.

The drive itself was a wonderful primer on the formation of the canyon. For much of the way, we followed the Colorado River Gorge through a landscape of colorful cliffs, mesas and rugged desert terrain. The changing colors of the rocks seemed to provide a kind of primer for the Grand Canyon.

By the time we reached the park, we were already surrounded by the geological artistry that makes this part of Arizona so extraordinary. But the best was yet to come.

Desert View: Our Favorite Stop

Our first stop was Desert View, and it turned out to be our favorite of all the overlooks we visited.

The view was spectacular, but the setting was made even more memorable by the Desert View Watchtower, the distinctive stone tower built in the 1930s. The tower rises dramatically above the rim and looks as though it belongs there—as though someone simply found a way to make the architecture grow naturally out of the canyon landscape.

Standing there and looking across the canyon toward the distant horizon was breathtaking.

John Muir once described the Grand Canyon as “a vast wilderness of rocks in a sea of light, colored and glowing like oak and maple woods in autumn.” That description seemed particularly appropriate today.

The canyon isn’t simply one big hole in the ground. It is a vast landscape of color, depth, shadows, light and seemingly endless layers of geological history. Even after multiple visits to the park, the sight still invokes awe and wonder.

We stopped briefly at several other overlooks as we made our way along the rim, but eventually we spent considerable time at Grandview Point. The name is certainly appropriate.

The View That Never Gets Old

One of the interesting things about returning to a place you’ve visited before is discovering that the place may not have changed nearly as much as you have.

Twenty-five years ago, we stood on the North Rim and looked across this same magnificent canyon. Today we stood on the South Rim and saw it from an entirely different perspective. The Colorado River was still winding its way through the depths. The layers of rock were still telling a story that began millions of years before any of us arrived. And yet the view still seemed fresh and inspiring.

There is something humbling about standing before a landscape that makes our own lifetimes seem so small.

Keeping the Canyon Clean

Eventually, we made our way to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, parked the car and walked a portion of the South Rim Trail. We stopped at Mather Point, where the views were, once again, astonishing. But something else caught our attention.

We noticed a team of people wearing blue shirts who appeared to be preparing to rappel down the canyon. At first, we couldn’t figure out exactly what they were doing. It looked like some kind of adventurous expedition. Then we discovered they were a work crew whose job was to clean garbage and debris from the steep sides of the canyon.

Later, we saw another team doing similar work along the canyon wall behind Thunderbird Lodge. They are brave and appreciated souls indeed.

It was a good reminder that preserving places as magnificent as the Grand Canyon requires more than creating a national park and putting up a few signs.

Perhaps that’s part of the responsibility that comes with enjoying beautiful places: We should do what we can to preserve them for the generations who will come after us.

The Mystery of the Tonka Truck

As we were leaving Mather Point, we noticed something rather unusual. On the ground, over the fence and near the canyon’s edge, was a child’s Tonka truck. We wondered how it got there and imagined a child tossing it, not realizing it could not be safely retrieved.

Then, ironically, at the very next overlook, we encountered the answer. A young boy was crying because he had lost his truck. We overheard his dad explaining to him, rather matter-of-factly: “You threw it over the fence. There’s no getting it back. That’s just the way it is.”

We couldn’t help but smile at the irony. Of course, there may be a little life lesson in there for all of us. And sometimes, no matter how much we want something back, there’s no getting it back. Whether it’s a dilemma of our own making, or just the unfairness of life. That’s just the way it is.

Finding a Bite to Eat

After another restroom break and a brief stop in the Park Store, we drove on to the Village Market, where we purchased a turkey sandwich and Pringles to share.

It wasn’t exactly a leisurely Grand Canyon lunch, but it did the job.

And given the circumstances at the South Rim, we were fortunate to find something to eat. The lodges and restaurants at the South Rim are currently closed because of a flash flood in August that damaged the park’s water system. Officials are hoping to have things reopened sometime in November or December.

As a result, many of the regular restrooms are also closed, and portable toilets have been brought in for visitors.

It was an unusual sight at one of America’s most visited national parks. The Grand Canyon is still very much open to visitors, but the infrastructure that normally supports those visitors is undergoing repairs.

Bright Angel and the Crowds

After our stop at the market, we continued to Bright Angel, where we walked a little more of the South Rim Trail.

The crowds were noticeably larger here, which was interesting because the hotels are currently closed. There were several bus groups, and we suspect many of them were either getting ready to board the Grand Canyon Railway or had just arrived from the train.

Throughout our visit, we noticed that many of the visitors who appeared to be on day trips or overnight trips out of Las Vegas or Phoenix.  Others were staying in the area camp grounds which we still open. And others, like us, were driving the canyon loop as a part of a larger trip.

On to Williams

After our visit to Bright Angel, we departed the National Park and headed south. We drove on to Williams, where we stopped at the Pine Country Restaurant for a late lunch/early dinner. After a full day of driving, walking, and taking in one spectacular view after another, we were ready for a good meal.

Then we checked into the Ellsworth Hotel, arriving just in time to watch a little football. Both of our teams, Jax State and Alabama, pulled out big wins.

It was a fitting way to end an extraordinary day.

Another Day, Another Adventure

Tomorrow we will leave Williams and make our way back toward Las Vegas, with a brief stop at Hoover Dam along the way.

In the morning, we plan to participate in worship via livestream.

Tomorrow evening, we have tickets to see The Wizard of Oz at the Sphere.

After a good night’s sleep, we plan to make the most of our last couple of days out west.

A Trio Southwestern Wonders: Glen Canyon Dam, Antelope Canyon, and Horseshoe Bend

Thursday September 24

Our third day in Page, Arizona, turned out to be one of those days when the scenery seems to get better every time you turn around.

After a simple breakfast of cereal, Amanda’s ice cold milk, and my Folger’s coffee, we headed into Page for our scheduled visit to Upper Antelope Canyon. But before arriving at the canyon, we made a brief stop to admire another remarkable feature of the desert landscape—Glen Canyon Dam and the Colorado River Gorge.

A Stop at Glen Canyon Dam

Glen Canyon Dam is an impressive sight. Completed in 1963, the massive dam spans the Colorado River and created Lake Powell, one of the largest reservoirs in the United States. The dam was built as part of the Colorado River Storage Project to provide water storage and generate hydroelectric power for the growing Southwest. Its construction dramatically changed the landscape, flooding much of Glen Canyon and creating new recreational opportunities while also altering the river ecosystem and inundating cultural and archaeological sites.

Standing above the dam and looking down into the river gorge, it is hard not to be impressed by both the scale of the engineering and the power of the river that carved this landscape over millions of years.

The Colorado River has been the great sculptor of this part of the country. And today, we saw some of its artwork up close.

Into Antelope Canyon

We arrived at the Upper Antelope Canyon tour area and discovered something rather amusing. For a place that attracts visitors from around the world, the entrance area is remarkably unassuming and simple. There was an unpaved parking area, a wooden pavilion where we checked in, and a bank of portable toilets serving as the rest area. Nothing about the entrance suggested the spectacular experience waiting just beyond the desert.

We checked in at 10:00 a.m. and waited until our group was called at 10:40. Then we climbed into the back of a pickup truck for the approximately three-mile, 15-minute ride across the desert to the entrance of the canyon.

The contrast was striking. We were traveling across a seemingly barren desert landscape toward a place renowned for some of the most beautiful rock formations in the Southwest.

Antelope Canyon was formed primarily by water erosion over thousands of years. Flash floods and flowing water gradually carved and smoothed the Navajo sandstone, creating the narrow, flowing walls and graceful curves that make the canyon so distinctive.

The canyon is part of the Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park and is located on Navajo Nation land. The Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation Department notes that local Navajo people have long had cultural connections to the canyon and surrounding LeChee area. The English name “Antelope Canyon” is associated with the pronghorn antelope that once roamed freely in the area. For generations, entering a place like Antelope Canyon was regarded by older Navajos as something akin to entering a cathedral—a place to pause, prepare, and experience the beauty of nature with respect.

That description seems especially appropriate once you enter the canyon.

Our Guide, Tyrone

Our guide was Tyrone, a member of the Navajo Nation. He was an exceptional guide.

Tyrone was highly knowledgeable about the canyon and its geological formations, but he was equally knowledgeable about Navajo history and culture. He was also well-versed in Navajo government and clearly passionate about the future of his people.

I got the impression that Tyrone would describe himself as progressive. He spoke openly about the need to consider reforms to some of the “old ways” and seemed deeply concerned about finding ways to improve life and opportunities for the Navajo people.

His perspective added another dimension to our tour. We weren’t simply looking at beautiful rocks. We were listening to someone who has a personal connection to this land, its history, its people, and its future.

Throughout the tour, Tyrone provided historical information about the canyon and was quick to point out nicknames given to various rock formations. He also knew exactly where to stand to capture the best photographs.

He would point out a formation and then tell us how to position our cameras to capture it.  And at times, he took photos of all of our group members with our own phone cameras.

Also, Amanda took some of the best photographs we’ve ever taken at a site like this.

The canyon walls seemed to change constantly as the sunlight filtered through the narrow opening above us. Curving sandstone walls flowed upward and around us, creating shapes and patterns that looked almost too artistic to be natural. But nature is often a better artist than we are.

After leaving the slot canyon, we climbed the outdoor stairs and made our way over the mountain and back to our vehicle.

It was quite a contrast—inside the canyon, we were surrounded by narrow sandstone walls; outside, we were back in the broad openness of the Arizona desert.

The Birdhouse for Lunch

After our tour, we headed to The Birdhouse for lunch.

The restaurant is located in a renovated Sonic drive-in and specializes in fresh-battered chicken tenders and homemade sauces.

The chicken was delicious. There’s something satisfying about a good meal after walking through a canyon and climbing a mountain!

After lunch, we decided to return to our townhouse for a brief rest.

We also took the opportunity to watch some of the President’s Cup before heading out again. Travel doesn’t have to mean being on the go every minute. (At least I keep telling Amanda that.)

Sometimes you need a little downtime to recharge before the next adventure.

Horseshoe Bend

Around 4:15 p.m., we headed out for our second major attraction of the day: Horseshoe Bend. And what a sight it is.

Horseshoe Bend is an enormous, horseshoe-shaped curve in the Colorado River just south of Page. The river makes a sweeping 270-degree turn around a sandstone escarpment, creating a canyon approximately 1,000 feet deep. The bend developed as the Colorado River continued cutting downward through the uplifted sandstone of the Colorado Plateau.

The overlook has become one of the most recognizable views in the American Southwest. Photographs simply don’t do it justice.

You stand on the rim and look down at the Colorado River making its enormous turn below. The river looks almost impossibly small from that height, yet you know that this seemingly modest ribbon of water helped carve the landscape surrounding you.

Most visitors were respectful of the “rim,” and they maintained a safe distance from the edge. Certainly, any slip and fall would prove fatal. But a few folks were pushing the limits, letting their feet hang over the side, or posing dangerously close to cliffs. This elevates my anxiety to the point I can’t hang around and watch for long.

We spent about 40 minutes walking and taking in the view.

Forty minutes doesn’t sound like a long time, but at Horseshoe Bend, you don’t really need an itinerary. You just stand there and enjoy the scenic view.

Sunset Over the Desert

We started back toward our townhouse, grabbed a frozen yogurt for our “light snack,”  but decided we weren’t quite ready for the day to end.

So we stopped at the Scenic Overlook near our unit to watch the sunset. It turned out to be an excellent decision.

As the sun began to sink toward the horizon, the desert landscape changed before our eyes. The various colors in the rock formations seemed to come alive as the setting sun cast its final rays of daylight across the cliffs, mesas, and desert floor.

The colors became warmer. The shadows grew longer. The landscape seemed to glow.

It was a fitting conclusion to a day where we had already enjoyed so much of the beauty of the desert.

One of the blessings of traveling is discovering that no two days are quite alike. Today we saw an enormous dam built by human hands, a canyon sculpted by water, and a bend in a river created through millions of years of geological change.

We listened to a Navajo guide share his knowledge and perspective. We ate good food. We rested. We watched golf. We stood at the edge of one of the most spectacular vistas in the Southwest. And we ended the day watching the sun paint the desert.

Tomorrow will be a little less adventurous. We plan to wash a few clothes, reorganize our suitcases, and prepare for the remaining days of our trip. We also have a tee time at Lake Powell Golf Club.

Then, on Saturday, we’ll head toward one of the great highlights of our western journey: the Grand Canyon.

We’ve discovered that the hardest part of a trip like this isn’t finding things to see. It’s finding enough time to see them.

Stay tuned. The journey continues.