Wednesday September 23

There are some places you visit once and check off your list. Then there are places that you want to visit again. Zion National Park is one of those places for us.

David Muench said, “Zion National Park is a symphony of stone, a cacophony of color, and a ballet of light.”

Today we traveled from Hurricane, Utah, to Springdale, the gateway to Zion National Park. We were returning to a place we first visited with family about 25 years ago. Some things had changed considerably. Other things—the towering sandstone cliffs, the Virgin River, and the breathtaking beauty of the canyon—looked remarkably familiar.

Springdale: Gateway to Zion

Springdale is a small community tucked into the Virgin River Valley immediately outside Zion National Park. Its history is closely connected to the Mormon pioneer settlement of southern Utah. During the 1860s, several communities sprang up along the upper Virgin River, including Springdale. Pioneer families established farms and homesteads in the area, although flooding, drought, and difficult agricultural conditions made life challenging.

Today, Springdale has become a bustling gateway for visitors from around the world who come to experience Zion. Hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries, and tour companies line the road leading toward the park.

And today, we became part of that traffic!

Marching Into Zion

Zion is Utah’s oldest national park, having been established by Congress on November 19, 1919. Before becoming a national park, the area was designated Mukuntuweap National Monument in 1909 and later Zion National Monument in 1918. The name “Zion” comes from an ancient Hebrew word meaning “sanctuary” or “refuge.” It certainly seems like an appropriate name for a place where the walls of the canyon rise dramatically toward the sky.

Long before it became a national park, however, people lived in and around Zion Canyon. Indigenous peoples—including Ancestral Puebloan and Southern Paiute peoples—have called this region home for thousands of years. Mormon pioneers later established settlements in the area during the nineteenth century.

Today, millions of people come to Zion each year to marvel at the landscape. We were among them.

Taking the Shuttle

One of the biggest changes since our last visit is the shuttle system.

During the shuttle season, private vehicles are not permitted on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. The National Park Service began operating the shuttle system in 2000 to reduce traffic and parking problems and help preserve the canyon experience.

Our original plan was to park at the Zion Visitor Center and catch the canyon shuttle there. There was only one problem. The parking lot was full.

So we did what the National Park Service recommends: we parked in Springdale and took the town shuttle to the visitor center. From there, we transferred to the Zion Canyon shuttle and headed into the park.

The shuttles were full, and the trails were fairly congested. The weather, however, was beautiful, so it was a great day to be enjoying one of our nation’s premier national parks.

A Milestone and Highlight

A highlight for me getting my Lifetime National Parks Pass now that I’ve reached the age of eligibility for the senior pass.

There is something special about receiving that little pass. It represents more than admission to America’s national parks. It feels like a passport to some of the most beautiful places in our country—and a reminder that retirement has its privileges!

This little card is going to get plenty of use on this trip and beyond.

Our Favorite Stop: The Narrows

Our favorite stop in Zion is Stop #9—the Temple of Sinawava, at the end of the canyon.

From there, we took the Riverside Walk, a paved trail that follows the Virgin River into the narrowing canyon. The National Park Service lists the round-trip distance at 2.2 miles.

This time we walked all the way to the end of the paved walkway. And that brought back some wonderful memories.

The last time we were here, about 25 years ago, we came with family and continued farther into The Narrows. By “into,” I mean we actually walked up the Virgin River.

Or, perhaps I should say, we walked in the Virgin River!

The Narrows is one of those places where the landscape seems almost impossible. Massive sandstone walls rise on either side while the river winds its way through the canyon floor. At the end of the Riverside Walk, the paved trail gives way to the famous river hike.

We didn’t wade into the river this time, but we enjoyed remembering the adventure from years ago.

Sometimes returning to a familiar place is almost as enjoyable as discovering it for the first time because the landscape brings memories along with it.

Over the Mountain and Through the Tunnel

After returning to our car, we continued through the eastern side of the park.

We climbed the mountain switchbacks and traveled through the historic Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, which was part of a major highway project completed in 1930 to connect Zion with Bryce Canyon and other destinations to the east. The highway was an engineering achievement for its time, climbing through the rugged sandstone landscape and passing through the mountain itself.

The drive itself is an adventure. One minute you’re surrounded by the towering cliffs of Zion Canyon, and before long you’re climbing through a dramatically different landscape on the eastern side of the park.

That’s one of the things we love about this part of the country. Sometimes the best view is through the car window.. Sometimes the road itself is the attraction.

Dinner in Kanab

We continued on to Kanab, where we stopped for dinner at Houston’s. The meal was great, and the homemade rolls were especially good. Our server even brought us a bottle of honey to go with the rolls. That’s the kind of thoughtful touch that turns a good meal into a memorable one.

After dinner, we climbed back into the car and continued toward Page, Arizona.

Home for the Next Three Days

We arrived in Page and checked into our Airbnb townhouse, where we’ll be staying for the next three days.

Our accommodations have a great view of the surrounding mountain range and desert, along with a distant glimpse of Lake Powell.

After several days of moving from one hotel to another, it will be nice to unpack for a few days and establish a temporary home base.

And there is plenty to explore from here. Tomorrow we’re planning to visit Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend. Two more iconic places. Two more chapters in our western adventure

Today, we enjoyed our journey between Zion’s towering cliffs and Page’s desert landscape. Tomorrow, another adventure awaits.