Saturday September 26
David Brown observed, “Standing at the edge of the Grand Canyon is like standing at the edge of time, where nature’s artistry tells stories of eternity.”
The Grand Canyon is one of those places where photographs, words, and memories seem inadequate to describe the experience of gazing across the gorge, admiring the colors, listening to the whistling wind, and inhaling the moment.
I have been to the Grand Canyon multiple times over the years, and one thing that continues to amaze me is that the view never gets old.
No matter how many times I stand at the rim, there is something about looking into that immense canyon that makes me pause, reflect, and simply take it in.
Our most recent visit was 25 years ago, when we visited the North Rim. It has been over 30 years since we visited the South Rim.. So today’s return to the Grand Canyon was not a new experience but it was a new adventure.
A Scenic Prelude to the Canyon
This morning we left Page, Arizona, and headed toward the Grand Canyon, entering the park through the East Entrance.
The drive itself was a wonderful primer on the formation of the canyon. For much of the way, we followed the Colorado River Gorge through a landscape of colorful cliffs, mesas and rugged desert terrain. The changing colors of the rocks seemed to provide a kind of primer for the Grand Canyon.
By the time we reached the park, we were already surrounded by the geological artistry that makes this part of Arizona so extraordinary. But the best was yet to come.
Desert View: Our Favorite Stop
Our first stop was Desert View, and it turned out to be our favorite of all the overlooks we visited.
The view was spectacular, but the setting was made even more memorable by the Desert View Watchtower, the distinctive stone tower built in the 1930s. The tower rises dramatically above the rim and looks as though it belongs there—as though someone simply found a way to make the architecture grow naturally out of the canyon landscape.
Standing there and looking across the canyon toward the distant horizon was breathtaking.
John Muir once described the Grand Canyon as “a vast wilderness of rocks in a sea of light, colored and glowing like oak and maple woods in autumn.” That description seemed particularly appropriate today.
The canyon isn’t simply one big hole in the ground. It is a vast landscape of color, depth, shadows, light and seemingly endless layers of geological history. Even after multiple visits to the park, the sight still invokes awe and wonder.
We stopped briefly at several other overlooks as we made our way along the rim, but eventually we spent considerable time at Grandview Point. The name is certainly appropriate.
The View That Never Gets Old
One of the interesting things about returning to a place you’ve visited before is discovering that the place may not have changed nearly as much as you have.
Twenty-five years ago, we stood on the North Rim and looked across this same magnificent canyon. Today we stood on the South Rim and saw it from an entirely different perspective. The Colorado River was still winding its way through the depths. The layers of rock were still telling a story that began millions of years before any of us arrived. And yet the view still seemed fresh and inspiring.
There is something humbling about standing before a landscape that makes our own lifetimes seem so small.
Keeping the Canyon Clean
Eventually, we made our way to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center, parked the car and walked a portion of the South Rim Trail. We stopped at Mather Point, where the views were, once again, astonishing. But something else caught our attention.
We noticed a team of people wearing blue shirts who appeared to be preparing to rappel down the canyon. At first, we couldn’t figure out exactly what they were doing. It looked like some kind of adventurous expedition. Then we discovered they were a work crew whose job was to clean garbage and debris from the steep sides of the canyon.
Later, we saw another team doing similar work along the canyon wall behind Thunderbird Lodge. They are brave and appreciated souls indeed.
It was a good reminder that preserving places as magnificent as the Grand Canyon requires more than creating a national park and putting up a few signs.
Perhaps that’s part of the responsibility that comes with enjoying beautiful places: We should do what we can to preserve them for the generations who will come after us.
The Mystery of the Tonka Truck
As we were leaving Mather Point, we noticed something rather unusual. On the ground, over the fence and near the canyon’s edge, was a child’s Tonka truck. We wondered how it got there and imagined a child tossing it, not realizing it could not be safely retrieved.
Then, ironically, at the very next overlook, we encountered the answer. A young boy was crying because he had lost his truck. We overheard his dad explaining to him, rather matter-of-factly: “You threw it over the fence. There’s no getting it back. That’s just the way it is.”
We couldn’t help but smile at the irony. Of course, there may be a little life lesson in there for all of us. And sometimes, no matter how much we want something back, there’s no getting it back. Whether it’s a dilemma of our own making, or just the unfairness of life. That’s just the way it is.
Finding a Bite to Eat
After another restroom break and a brief stop in the Park Store, we drove on to the Village Market, where we purchased a turkey sandwich and Pringles to share.
It wasn’t exactly a leisurely Grand Canyon lunch, but it did the job.
And given the circumstances at the South Rim, we were fortunate to find something to eat. The lodges and restaurants at the South Rim are currently closed because of a flash flood in August that damaged the park’s water system. Officials are hoping to have things reopened sometime in November or December.
As a result, many of the regular restrooms are also closed, and portable toilets have been brought in for visitors.
It was an unusual sight at one of America’s most visited national parks. The Grand Canyon is still very much open to visitors, but the infrastructure that normally supports those visitors is undergoing repairs.
Bright Angel and the Crowds
After our stop at the market, we continued to Bright Angel, where we walked a little more of the South Rim Trail.
The crowds were noticeably larger here, which was interesting because the hotels are currently closed. There were several bus groups, and we suspect many of them were either getting ready to board the Grand Canyon Railway or had just arrived from the train.
Throughout our visit, we noticed that many of the visitors who appeared to be on day trips or overnight trips out of Las Vegas or Phoenix. Others were staying in the area camp grounds which we still open. And others, like us, were driving the canyon loop as a part of a larger trip.
On to Williams
After our visit to Bright Angel, we departed the National Park and headed south. We drove on to Williams, where we stopped at the Pine Country Restaurant for a late lunch/early dinner. After a full day of driving, walking, and taking in one spectacular view after another, we were ready for a good meal.
Then we checked into the Ellsworth Hotel, arriving just in time to watch a little football. Both of our teams, Jax State and Alabama, pulled out big wins.
It was a fitting way to end an extraordinary day.
Another Day, Another Adventure
Tomorrow we will leave Williams and make our way back toward Las Vegas, with a brief stop at Hoover Dam along the way.
In the morning, we plan to participate in worship via livestream.
Tomorrow evening, we have tickets to see The Wizard of Oz at the Sphere.
After a good night’s sleep, we plan to make the most of our last couple of days out west.
